Skip to content

Luxury Vinyl Plank

Sort by

View

Load more

348 remaining

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between LVP and LVT?

Shape and print, not construction. Plank is cut long and narrow and almost always printed as wood; the tile format is square or rectangular and printed as stone. Everything under the print is the same, so the two are specified the same way, and the vinyl tile page covers that format.

Is every floor in this range waterproof?

Most of it is specified as waterproof and the rest as water resistant, and the difference is stated on each product, not across the category. The distinction that matters more is what the rating covers: it describes the plank, not the assembled floor. Standing water on a floating floor will eventually reach the joints and the subfloor below, which is why a waterproof plank is a safeguard against spills, not against a leak left alone.

Is a thicker vinyl plank better?

Thicker means more rigid and quieter, not longer lasting. Total thickness is a description of the core, which is what bridges dips in the subfloor and what the floor feels like underfoot. How long the floor keeps its appearance is decided by the wear layer on top instead, and the two numbers do not track each other, so a thick board with a thin wear layer is a comfortable floor that ages quickly.

What wear layer suits a busy house?

Wear layers typically run 6, 12, 20, 22 and 30 mil. The thin end is built for light residential rooms, and from 12 mil upward most luxury vinyl plank already carries a commercial rating of some kind, with 22 and 30 mil held back for the heaviest commercial traffic. A hall, a kitchen and a room with a dog all argue for the upper half of that spread; a guest bedroom does not need it. Matching the number to the room rather than to the house is what keeps the cost sensible.

Vinyl or laminate?

If the room can get wet, vinyl. A laminate core is fiberboard and swells when water reaches it, while a vinyl core does not. If the room stays dry and the floor will take hard use, laminate has the harder surface of the two and resists scratching better. Neither can be refinished, so both are replaced instead of repaired when the surface finally goes.

Does it work in a basement or a bathroom?

Both are common uses and the reason the category exists. A basement slab carries moisture from below, and a plastic or mineral core does not react to it the way a wood floor does. A bathroom asks the same question about spills at floor level. What still needs checking is the slab itself, because moisture arriving through concrete is a subfloor condition and not a flooring one, and each manufacturer states its own limit.

Do I still need underlayment if the plank has a pad?

It depends on the plank, and the product page is what says which. Most of this category arrives with a pad already bonded to the back and a real minority does not, so the first thing to check is which one is in the box. Anything else permitted underneath, particularly over a slab, is set by the manufacturer.

How much should I order?

Box size tracks the plank format rather than sitting at a fixed figure, so the coverage and the piece count on the product page are the numbers to work from. Cuts at the walls and at doorways mean the floor consumes more than the bare room measurement, and diagonal or staggered layouts consume more again. The right allowance depends on the shape of the room and on the layout chosen, so it is judged from the plan rather than taken as a fixed percentage.

Luxury vinyl plank construction

Four layers, and each one does a separate job. The top is a clear wear layer, measured in mils, and it is the only layer that meets a shoe or a chair leg. Under it sits a printed film, which is a photograph of wood or stone and carries none of the durability. Under that is the core, which is the thickest part of the board and decides how rigid it feels and how it behaves over an uneven floor. Many boards then carry a pad bonded to the underside.

That order matters because the two numbers buyers compare, total thickness and wear layer, describe different layers and predict different things. The floor that looks best is decided by the film. The floor that still looks new in five years is decided by the wear layer. The floor that lies flat over a rough subfloor is decided by the core. A board can be excellent at one of these and ordinary at the others.

Plank and tile formats

The category is named for planks and most of it is planks, printed as wood and cut long and narrow. A smaller part of the same range is cut as tiles, printed as marble or as stone, in squares and rectangles such as 12x24 and 18x36. The construction is identical; only the shape and the print change, which is why a marble look vinyl tile can be specified for the same room as the planks around it and behave the same way underfoot.

Every floor in the range is matte. That is a deliberate feature of the category instead of a gap in the selection: a gloss finish on a printed floor reads as plastic under a window, and matte is what lets the print pass for the material it is imitating. The wood look range covers how convincing that imitation gets and what separates a good print from an obvious one.

Thickness and wear layer

Total thickness in luxury vinyl plank runs from about 2 mm to 9 mm. Wear layer runs from 6 mil to 30 mil, with 20 mil and 12 mil accounting for most of the range. The two do not move together. A 5 mm rigid board can carry a 12 mil wear layer, and a thinner flexible plank can carry 20 mil, so a thicker floor is not automatically a longer lasting one.

Thickness and wear layer answer different questions. Thickness is about the body of the board and how it feels to stand on; wear layer is about the clear film on top and how long it keeps its finish. What the wear layer buys is time before the print starts to show traffic. A hallway and a spare bedroom can take the same plank and wear through it at completely different rates, so the wear layer is the number to match to the room rather than to the budget.

Click lock, glue down and loose lay

Three quarters of the floors gathered here describe themselves as rigid core with a machined locking edge, and a rigid core floor floats: the planks engage with each other rather than bonding to the subfloor, and the assembled floor rests on top of whatever is already there. That is the reason a vinyl floor can go over old tile or old vinyl and not instead of it. The click lock range covers the floating method in detail.

A smaller group is dryback, which is bonded to the subfloor with adhesive and has no locking edge. A glued floor is thinner, quieter and completely stable, it takes a flatter subfloor to do it justice, and it is the usual specification for large commercial areas and for rooms where a floating floor would need awkward breaks. Those are gathered under glue down vinyl. A third and much smaller group, a single series, is loose lay: held down by its own weight and friction rather than by adhesive or by a locking edge.

Waterproof rooms

Most luxury vinyl plank is specified as waterproof, which is the reason vinyl went into kitchens, bathrooms, laundries and basements while wood stayed in the dry rooms. The qualifier is that the rating belongs to the plank rather than to the finished floor, which is a distinction worth understanding before a laundry or a basement is specified on the strength of it.

The stronger and less obvious advantage is radiant heat. The great majority of luxury vinyl plank is specified as suitable over underfloor heating, which is not true of most wood and not true of every vinyl floor sold. That single line on a spec sheet is what lets one floor run continuously through a house that has heating in the slab, instead of stopping at the door of every heated room and changing material. Why a rigid board survives that daily cycle is covered on the click lock range; the maximum surface temperature and the commissioning sequence belong to each manufacturer.

Against laminate and real wood

Laminate is the closer comparison and the difference is in the core. A laminate board has a fiberboard core, which is wood, and wood swells when it takes on water. A vinyl board has a plastic or mineral filled core, which does not. Laminate answers with a harder surface: its melamine wear layer resists scratching better than vinyl of the same price, and it usually feels less soft underfoot. So laminate is the tougher surface in a dry room, and vinyl is the floor that survives a leak.

Against wood the trade is different again. An engineered hardwood floor has a real wood surface that takes sanding, which means damage is repairable and the floor can change color years later. A printed floor cannot be refinished at all; when the wear layer is gone the print is gone. What vinyl gives back is water tolerance, a lower profile over an existing floor, and a price structure that makes a whole ground floor viable.

Vinyl plank trim

Most luxury vinyl plank lines have matching trim, which is easy to forget until the floor is down. A vinyl floor needs a transition where it meets another material, a stair nose on every step, and a quarter round or a base shoe where it meets the baseboard. These are printed and finished to match the plank, and the matching piece is tied to the floor, not to the color, so an approximate match from another range shows.

The flooring trim range holds the profiles, and stair nose belongs in the order early if the job includes steps, because a floating floor and a staircase are not automatically compatible and the nosing is what resolves it. Luxury vinyl plank boxes typically cover roughly 18 to 36 square feet, with anywhere from five to eighteen pieces depending on the format, so the box count moves with the plank size as well as the room.

Narrowing the range

Three axes cut the luxury vinyl plank category cleanly. By color: beige and blonde, brown, gray and white, which is the axis most people start on and the one a sample answers fastest. By format: wide plank against standard width, which changes how large a room reads more than the color does.

By construction: click lock against glue down, which is the decision the subfloor and the room usually make for you. The technical layer is the same whichever route is taken, and a sample is the only reliable way to settle color, because a printed floor photographs warmer or cooler than it looks in a room.

Cart

Your cart is empty.

My Projects

Loading your projects…

Added to cart

Complete your project

View cart

Choose options