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Tile Setting Materials | Grouts

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Frequently Asked Questions

Sanded or unsanded grout?

Joint width decides it. Under an eighth of an inch, use unsanded. Wider than that, use sanded, because the sand keeps the grout from shrinking and cracking. On polished marble many installers use unsanded anyway, since sand can scratch the face.

Do I need to seal stone before grouting?

Yes, for marble, travertine, limestone and any porous stone. An unsealed stone absorbs pigment from the grout and the haze never fully comes out. Seal, grout, then seal again once it has cured.

How often should grout be resealed?

About once a year in a kitchen or shower, less in a low traffic room. If water stops beading on the joints and starts darkening them, it is time.

What is the difference between a sealer and a protector?

A penetrating sealer soaks into the stone and slows absorption from the inside. A surface protector sits on top and takes the wear. Most floors want the penetrating type; countertops sometimes get both.

Tile Setting Materials

The products that hold a tile job together and keep it there: sanded and unsanded grout, penetrating sealers, surface protectors, cleaners and caulk matched to grout colours.

Grout choice follows the joint, not the tile. Unsanded grout is for joints under an eighth of an inch and for polished stone that sand would scratch. Sanded grout is for wider joints, where the sand stops the grout shrinking and cracking as it cures.

Natural stone needs a penetrating sealer before grouting, otherwise the stone takes on pigment from the grout and holds it. After the job, sealing the grout itself is what keeps a kitchen or shower looking clean a year later.

Related collections: grout and sealers, unsanded grout and sanded grout.

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